Mircea Dinescu despre Port Cetate
Portul Cultural Cetate s-a născut pe ruina fostului port agricol, apărut pe la 1880, pe vremea cînd grîul nu putea creşte, ca astăzi, pe asfalt şi cînd croissantul vienez se făcea chiar cu făina adusă cu vapoarele cu zbaturi din Cetate. În 1945, portul a fost închis şi transformat în pichet de grăniceri, aventura bobului de grîu luînd o întorsǎturǎ neaşteptatǎ, în direcţia Moscovei.Cei aproape o mie de negustori de cereale înregistraţi în acest port în 1900, printre care foarte mulţi greci şi evrei, au emigrat atunci sau au înfundat, mai tîrziu, alǎturi de negustorii români, puşcǎriile comuniste. După revoluţia din ’89, clădirea comandamentului portului, construită de meşteri italieni, a fost devalizată de localnici şi redusă la stadiul de adăpost pentru doisprezece purcei şi două vaci. Aşa am descoperit-o eu, fără uşi, fără ferestre şi fără acoperiş, cu aerul părăginit de boieroaică de viţă veche, strigînd parcă, aidoma unei soţii de domnitor român violată de başibuzucii lui Sinan Paşa, „Ruşinatu-m-au păgînii!”. În 1997 am reuşit să cumpăr şi să transform ruina într-o casă de creaţie. În loc de grîu am încercat să umplem hambarele cu sculptori, scriitori, pictori şi muzicieni, iar pentru că guvernul României lansase pe piaţă brandul Dracula Parc, de dragul polemicii am iniţiat şi noi, pe malul Dunării, un Înger Parc, pornind de la premiza că România n-a fost doar sediul dracului, ci o fi fost bîntuită şi de îngeri, măcar pe la margini. În localitatea Cetate, vecină cu Bulgaria şi la doar cîţiva kilometri de graniţa sârbească, se spune că cocoşii cîntă în trei limbi – sârbă, bulgară şi română. Aşa că ideea unui port cultural multinaţional s-a potrivit ca o mănuşă. Cuptoarele pentru ars ceramica sînt concurate de cuptoarele în care se frig berbecii de la ferma poetului căzut în doaga agriculturii, iar tiradele aprinse ale autorilor străini invitaţi la colocvii sînt stinse cu vinuri nobile din producţia proprie. Păstrînd proporţiile, după negustorul de sclavi Rimbaud, negustorul de vin Dinescu pare un dulce copil. Aşa că nu vă sfiiţi şi călcaţi-i pragul casei. Vă asigur că la toate evenimentele şi întîmplările artistice de la Cetate vor participa, cum au participat şi pînă acum, pădurile din jur, Dunărea, vrăbiile şi ciorile – mari amatoare de cultură.
Cele mai recente evenimente in Cetate
Gandul Zilei
Daţi-mi mie pe mînă un ziar de provincie
şi-o baracă de scînduri cu o firmă soioasă
şi-n trei zile oraşele vor duhni a vanilie
şi a porturi deschise
Mircea Dinescu on Port Cetate
The Culture Port Cetate rose from the ashes of the former port of grains which had come into existence around 1880, back in the days when wheat couldn’t sprout out of asphalt the way it does today, and the Viennese croissant was baked with the very flour coming by paddle-steamer all the way from Cetate.
In 1945 the port was closed down and its offices converted into barracks for the border patrol, while the wheat grain unexpectedly changed its adventurous course Moscow-wards. The grain merchants registered with the port, about one thousand of them, including large numbers of Greeks and Jews, took their cue to emigrate or alternately languished away in communist prisons.
After the revolution of December 1989, the main office building of the port, designed by Italian architects, was vandalized by the locals and demoted to a shed accommodating twelve porkers and two cows.
That’s what it looked like when I happened to stumble across it—sans doors, sans glass, sans roof, sans everything, with the forlorn looks of a dame of noble birth gone to seed and uttering a mute protest bringing to mind the lament of a Romanian prince’s wife ravished by Sinan Pasha’s bashi-basouks: 'Alas, alack, the heathens have disgraced me!'
With the money I made by selling the shares I owned in a political satire magazine going by the name of 'Academia Caţavencu', where I used to contribute a weekly editorial for eight years running, I was able, in 1997, to purchase the ruin and have it transformed into a haven for the arts. In the absence of grain, we’ve been trying to fill our barns with sculptors, writers, painters and musicians, and, as in the year 2000 the Romanian government was all set to market the idea of a theme park in Transylvania—Dracula Park—we retaliated polemically, for the sake of argument, by starting an Angel Park on the banks of the Danube, an area strewn with statues of angels, assuming that Romania was not the exclusive seat of the devil—angels, too, must have haunted it, at least marginally.
The people of Cetate, located just across the river from Bulgaria and only a few kilometers’ distance from Serbia, claim that local cocks crow in three languages—Serbian, Bulgarian, and Romanian—which makes the idea of a multinational port of culture fit the location like a glove.
Our pottery kilns are competing with ovens where rams are roasted, courtesy of the farm run by a poet who’s lost his wits to husbandry, while the heated tirades of foreign authors invited to participate in the debates are quenched with the wine coming straight from Dinescu’s vineyards. All things considered, next to Rimbaud the slave merchant, Dinescu the wine merchant is but a babe in arms. So have no qualms about gracing his humble abode with your presence.
I do assure you that all artistic events taking place in Cetate will be faithfully attended, as customary, by the neighbouring woods, the river Danube, the sparrows and the crows—whose propensity for culture is already proverbial.
In 1945 the port was closed down and its offices converted into barracks for the border patrol, while the wheat grain unexpectedly changed its adventurous course Moscow-wards. The grain merchants registered with the port, about one thousand of them, including large numbers of Greeks and Jews, took their cue to emigrate or alternately languished away in communist prisons.
After the revolution of December 1989, the main office building of the port, designed by Italian architects, was vandalized by the locals and demoted to a shed accommodating twelve porkers and two cows.
That’s what it looked like when I happened to stumble across it—sans doors, sans glass, sans roof, sans everything, with the forlorn looks of a dame of noble birth gone to seed and uttering a mute protest bringing to mind the lament of a Romanian prince’s wife ravished by Sinan Pasha’s bashi-basouks: 'Alas, alack, the heathens have disgraced me!'
With the money I made by selling the shares I owned in a political satire magazine going by the name of 'Academia Caţavencu', where I used to contribute a weekly editorial for eight years running, I was able, in 1997, to purchase the ruin and have it transformed into a haven for the arts. In the absence of grain, we’ve been trying to fill our barns with sculptors, writers, painters and musicians, and, as in the year 2000 the Romanian government was all set to market the idea of a theme park in Transylvania—Dracula Park—we retaliated polemically, for the sake of argument, by starting an Angel Park on the banks of the Danube, an area strewn with statues of angels, assuming that Romania was not the exclusive seat of the devil—angels, too, must have haunted it, at least marginally.
The people of Cetate, located just across the river from Bulgaria and only a few kilometers’ distance from Serbia, claim that local cocks crow in three languages—Serbian, Bulgarian, and Romanian—which makes the idea of a multinational port of culture fit the location like a glove.
Our pottery kilns are competing with ovens where rams are roasted, courtesy of the farm run by a poet who’s lost his wits to husbandry, while the heated tirades of foreign authors invited to participate in the debates are quenched with the wine coming straight from Dinescu’s vineyards. All things considered, next to Rimbaud the slave merchant, Dinescu the wine merchant is but a babe in arms. So have no qualms about gracing his humble abode with your presence.
I do assure you that all artistic events taking place in Cetate will be faithfully attended, as customary, by the neighbouring woods, the river Danube, the sparrows and the crows—whose propensity for culture is already proverbial.
Thought of the day
Let me just have the run of some small-town gazette
in a run-down wooden shed with a dingy old sign
and within three days all towns will reek of vanilla
and of wide-open harbours